Here’s the story:

During my 2 weeks in Bangkok staycation trip, Ying and I spent an entire day eating in Bangkok’s Chinatown (also known as Yaowarat) and we were going to make video of the entire day.

We had a few places in mind to check out, but really we were just going to eat as much as possible.

Before we began for the day, Ying stopped to see a friend who owns a shop right on Yaowarat road and was born and raised in Yaowarat.

She said we should go eat at her favorite Thai suki restaurant, a place called Thai Haeng(ร้านไท้เฮง) restaurant.

When someone from Yaowarat recommends something to me, I go there… immediately.

And that’s how we ended up at Thai Haeng (ร้านไท้เฮง) for an unimaginably good plate of Thai suki.

Bangkok street food
Thai Haeng (ร้านไท้เฮง) Restaurant in Yaowarat

Thai Haeng (ร้านไท้เฮง) Restaurant

Thai Haeng (ร้านไท้เฮง) Restaurant is about as properly a preserved and old school Thai Chinese restaurant as it gets in Bangkok. It’s one of those places that looks like it hasn’t changed at all – and probably hasn’t – in 50 years, maybe longer.

The restaurant is located in Bangkok’s Chinatown, down Yaowarat Soi 8, which is little more than a sleepy walking and motorbike alley that’s home to a couple of Chinese temples. But just a few meters into the alley, you’ll see the sign for the restaurant immediately after Wat Bamphen Chin Phrot temple.

You’ll see a cabinet with a few hanging chickens (indicating their sale of chicken rice) in one of the most classic wooden cabinets you’ll ever see in Bangkok.

They only serve two different dishes: khao man gai (chicken rice ข้าวมันไก่), and suki (Thai sukiyaki สุกี้ร).

classic Bangkok restaurants
The decor hasn’t changed in decads

The shophouse kitchen is located on the right hand side of the alley, while right opposite the alley is the sitting room, a high ceiling shophouse, with a number of scattered Chinese wooden tables covered in a marble top.

Before the food even came, my hopes were already high, just because of the decor… I knew they’d been doing something right all these years.

Suki ruam mit nam (สุกี้รวมมิตรน้ำ)

Ying ordered a bowl of suki ruam mit nam (สุกี้รวมมิตรน้ำ), Thai style suki with a mix of seafood and meat, and the soup version.

The suki included a mix of pork meat, liver, and some squid, plus probably some little bits of other seafoods as well. It also included lots of napa cabbage, a few sprigs of water morning glory, mung bean noodles, and an egg curdled into the sup.

Rather than being bland and sweet, like many version of Thai street food suki nam you’ll get these days, this bowl was smoky in taste, with a depth of porky broth flavor which must have come from the result of a masterful stock.

It doesn’t look like much, but it was fantastic, among the best bowls of Thai suki nam I’ve tasted.

Although sukiyaki has Japanese origins and influence, the Thai version isn’t really anything like Japanese suki, it’s been completely Thai-ified.

Thai suki sauce
Thai suki sauce

Thai suki sauce

Another hugely important component of eating Thai suki is the sauce, and there are a number of different version, but the original version that you won’t find at your average street food stall in Bangkok anymore, is made with pink fermented tofu paste (the same ingredient used in yen ta fo soup).

The sauce at Thai Haeng (ร้านไท้เฮง) sauce contained just the right amount of fermented tofu, balanced with lots of pureed garlic and chilies, and not unnecessarily sweet.

While some restaurants have taken to using a sweet tangy, almost ketchup-y sauce, you’ll find the real deal suki sauce here.

สุกี้รวมมิตรแห้ง
Suki ruam mit haeng (สุกี้รวมมิตรแห้ง) – dry suki

Suki ruam mit haeng (สุกี้รวมมิตรแห้ง)

Thai sukiyaki is a very popular dish – and it’s a favorite at Thai indoor mall restaurants, where suki is often a hotpot of soup with meat and veggies that’s served with a dipping sauce.

But along with the soup version of Thai suki, you can also get suki haeng, which is always available at any suki restaurant you go to in Bangkok, but it’s the lesser known version of the dish. However I think it’s the superior version – mostly because I have a soft spot for smoky wok fried foods.

Suki haeng (สุกี้แห้ง) is the dry stir fried version of suki, including all the same meat and vegetables, just stir fried up to give it that incredible wok flavor, instead of with soup.

The suki was incredible. The vegetables, slices of pork, and the mung bean noodles, were equally coated in smoky flavored egg, and it was dry from the heat of the wok, yet the ingredients were not dried out.

Taking bites of the suki and dipping them into the sauce, was excellent. It was better than just about every other version of suki haeng I’ve had in Thailand.

Thai chicken rice
They also serve fantastic chicken rice

Khao man gai (ข้าวมันไก่)

Although suki is the dish Ying and I really wanted to eat, we couldn’t visit Thai Haeng (ร้านไท้เฮง) Restaurant without trying their other signature dish: chicken rice.

To my surprise the the chicken rice was also very good. The rice wasn’t too oily, and it was fragrant from chicken broth and with a nice garlicky taste. Additionally, the rice was nice and fluffy, not to heavy.

Thai chicken rice
Succulent chicken, great sauce

The chicken sliced on top was also delicious, and even though it was chicken breast and had probably been hanging in the cabinet for a few hours, it wasn’t dried out.

Again, they made no mistakes with their sauce, which was of the fermented soy bean variety. It was salty and spicy, and went so well with the chicken and rice.

ร้านไท้เฮง
Out total bill at Thai Haeng (ร้านไท้เฮง) restaurant

Our total price for the three dishes we ate came to 170 THB ($4.86).

Conclusion

There are so many outstanding restaurants in Bangkok’s Chinatown, but when it comes to Thai sukiyaki, Thai Haeng (ร้านไท้เฮง) Restaurant does it among the best in Bangkok.

Both the suki with soup and the stir fried dry suki were delicious, and the sauce, made with pink fermented tofu and plenty of chilies and garlic, was incredible.

Not only is the food great at Thai Haeng (ร้านไท้เฮง), but the atmosphere of the restaurant, down a quiet alley in Yaowarat, and unchanged in decades, just adds to the experience.

Thai Haeng (ร้านไท้เฮง) Restaurant

Address: Yaowarat Soi 8, Talad Noi, Sampangtawong, Bangkok 10100 – right down Yaowarat Soi 8
Open hours: 10 am – 5:30 pm daily
Prices: Total price for everything we ate was 170 THB ($4.86)

ที่อยู่ ถ.เยาวราช ซ.เยาวราช 8 ตลาดน้อย สัมพันธวงศ์ กรุงเทพมหานคร 10100
เปิดบริการทุกวัน 10.00 – 17.30 น.

How to get there: The restaurant is located right in the heart of Yaowarat, on Yaowarat Soi 8. You can see the map here. Just walk down the alley a few meters the the restaurant is right down the alley.

11 comments. I'd love to hear from you!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

  • Nicole Lim

    2 years ago

    Just ate the thai suki dry pork, not worth the walk at all. Not recommended at all! Im not sure about the other dishes though. Try at your own risk.

  • Eden

    3 years ago

    do you have a recipe for Suki haeng? or this restaurant’s recipe for it? it look so good

  • Abby

    4 years ago

    We just tried to locate Thai Haeng and the whole street was shut down and completely empty. Did it move?

  • Lin

    4 years ago

    Hi Mark, the address to the restaurant which you have posted is wrong. Thai Heng is located at: 320-322,67/4 Yaowarat Rd, Khwaeng Samphanthawong, Khet Samphanthawong, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10100, Thailand

  • Ahmed

    4 years ago

    Hi mark
    I am in Bangkok but i am trying to locate this street food stall from your site but having trouble locating it.
    Where is it cus I can’t seem to find the YouTube video you did for it.

    It’s on this page:
    https://migrationology.com/travel-guides/bangkok-thailand/

    It’s the pic of you with the caption: nice to meet you I am mark!

  • Luciano Teixeira

    4 years ago

    Hi Mark , my name is luciano from cape verde islands , i subscribe on your YouTube channel i am a fan of thai food i ilike the spirit you give when you presente. I vê been in thailand 2007 and came back with ideia of making a restaurante wich hás as well thai food, i have 3 restaurantes , one is mostly capeverdean and internacional food,the secondo is pizzas and burgers an grill meat and in this one i want to have thai food and asian food , how can you help me ? Advices of wich are the most comon thai food to put. On the menu? Do you have a site adress that sales all sauces, like fish,ostrey,and all BASIC ingredientes non fresh for thai food?? How can you help me is possible? If you have a e-mail to contact you?
    Kindly luciano Teixeira Sal island Cape verde republic my phone number 002389754217

  • Suvro

    4 years ago

    Here are two interesting Bangkok restaurants written up in Financial Times:
    Le Du, 3 10500, 399/3 Soi Silom 5, Bang Rak, Bangkok 10500; ledubkk.com
    Baa Ga Din, 26 Aoi Sukhumvit 31, Bangkok 10110; bagaadin.com

    Not sure if you can read the original story (it is behind a paywall, but sometimes if you Google it, you can read it after a brief survey):
    http://www.ft.com/intl/cms/s/0/82b8b2c2-117e-11e6-839f-2922947098f0.html

    • Mark Wiens

      4 years ago

      Hi Suvro, thank you for sharing. I have been to Baa Ga Din and to Baan Family Recipes (the third restaurant), and I really liked Baan, but wasn’t huge on Baa Ga Din. But I haven’t been to Le Du yet. Have you been?

      • Suvro

        4 years ago

        Hi Mark,
        I live in Los Angeles. But I read the FT weekend section on wines (Jancis Robinson) and restaurant reviews. That is how I came across the article. Since you try all sorts of restaurants in Bangkok, from humble street food to high end dining, I thought you may have an interest in these two restaurants.
        There are some good Thai restaurants within easy reach for me in Pasadena – PokPok LA, Night+Market Song, Jitlada, and in a pinch Saladang. There are some others that I have been wanting to go to – Luv2Eat, but have not been yet.
        I love following your culinary adventures from here in LA!