Graveyard Dining in Silom (with Delicious Isan Food)
Hospitals, yes. Schools, yes. Parks, yes.
But a cemetery?
You’d never search in Bangkok for a food street next to a graveyard, would you?
Years ago, the first time I ever went to this popular Silom Isan street restaurant, it was so dimly lit, I didn’t even know we were sitting adjacent to a cemetery.
But if you look closely across the street and through the creepy concrete fence into the mysterious darkness, there you’ll see ancient grave stones.
I’m just joking, it’s not really that scary. Plus the delicious Isan food really lightens the mood.
Sprawling nearly 50 meters along the sidewalk, filled with tables and hungry diners, is cemetery eats (Larb Bpet Yasothon ร้านลาบเป็ดยโสธร – ตรงข้ามสุสาน)!
The food is all prepared on the far left hand side of the establishment from a series of about three street food carts all connected and sheltered by extra umbrellas.
The table tops are jam packed with cooking utensils, mortar and pestles, and ingredients; Bags and baskets filled with more ingredients hang from the rafters of the carts – there’s not a square centimeter of empty counter space.
The dining tables are nice, of the foldable shiny metal variety, and protected from the elements by tarps sealed with Saran wrap (at least the rain threatening night I was last there).
The menu includes the full Isan food repertoire.
Gai yang, pla pao, som tam (green papaya salads of all varieties), yam talay, larb, tom saap, and tom yum being a few of the popular choices.
The nam tok moo (grilled pork salad น้ำตกหมู), was alright, but I’ve had better.
This being Thai street food, you can’t really judge a single dish – simply because I may have gotten the chewy piece of pork this time – it’s just the way it goes sometimes. But the dressing was perfect.
For soup we ate the tom saap moo (sour Isan soup ต้มแซบหมู), a pig filled porky broth bursting with flavor.
At the bottom of the bowl were succulent, long boiled, thumb sized chunks of pig that were so tender an infant could probably eat them.
A standard to any Isan meal is a plate of som tam (green papaya salad ส้มตำไทย).
Using fresh ingredients, I thought they did an excellent ratio job here – big chunks of tomato, long beans, and lots of roasted peanuts.
I seem t0 rarely eat grilled chicken (gai yang ไก่ย่าง), but somehow in the month of October I went on a marathon of grilled chicken, aslo eating at Sabai Jai Gai Yang.
Each place has great grilled chicken, here being mostly tasty chicken wings served. They are nice and juicy!
The Bottom Line
Sprawling down the sidewalk, across the street from a creepy cemetery, and just off busy Silom road, the street food ambiance couldn’t be much better.
It’s nearly always packed and rightfully so, because the Isan food is top notch.
Show up for dinner and you’ll probably have to share a table.
Larb Bpet Yasothon ร้านลาบเป็ดยโสธร (ตรงข้ามสุสาน)
Prices: There were 2 of us that ordered this meal and our bill came to 280 THB, including 3 plates of sticky rice and about 3 bottles of water and ice.
Hours: 3 pm – 10 pm (closed on Monday) – I’d show up somewhere between 5 pm and 8 pm
Address: Silom 9, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500
Phone: 08-1754-9867 (don’t worry, no reservations needed)
ซ.สีลม9 บางรัก กรุงเทพ 10500
เปิด 15:00 – 10:00 น. หยุดทุกว้นจันทร์
How to Get There
Larb Bpet Yasothon is located on Silom Road and Soi 9 (which is also known as Soi Yasothon), just west of the big intersection of Silom Road and Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra.
You can take the BTS Skytrain to Chong Nonsi station, exit heading towards Silom Road, make a left, walk just one block until you see Silom Soi 9 (Yasothon), make a left, and the street side restaurant is on your left hand side.
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