Graveyard Dining in Silom (with Delicious Isan Food)

By Mark Wiens 21 Comments
Isan restaurant in Silom
For being next to a cemetery, they serve some pretty good Isan food!

Hospitals, yes. Schools, yes. Parks, yes.

But a cemetery?

You’d never search in Bangkok for a food street next to a graveyard, would you?

Years ago, the first time I ever went to this popular Silom Isan street restaurant, it was so dimly lit, I didn’t even know we were sitting adjacent to a cemetery.

But if you look closely across the street and through the creepy concrete fence into the mysterious darkness, there you’ll see ancient grave stones.

I’m just joking, it’s not really that scary. Plus the delicious Isan food really lightens the mood.

Sprawling nearly 50 meters along the sidewalk, filled with tables and hungry diners, is cemetery eats (Larb Bpet Yasothon ร้านลาบเป็ดยโสธร – ตรงข้ามสุสาน)!

Isan Restaurant in Silom, Bangkok, Thailand
This is where the magical cooking happens!

The food is all prepared on the far left hand side of the establishment from a series of about three street food carts all connected and sheltered by extra umbrellas.

The table tops are jam packed with cooking utensils, mortar and pestles, and ingredients; Bags and baskets filled with more ingredients hang from the rafters of the carts – there’s not a square centimeter of empty counter space.

ร้านลาบเป็ดยโสธร (ตรงข้ามสุสาน)
This is what you call a packed out street stall!

The dining tables are nice, of the foldable shiny metal variety, and protected from the elements by tarps sealed with Saran wrap (at least the rain threatening night I was last there).

The menu includes the full Isan food repertoire.

Nam tok moo (grilled pork salad น้ำตกหมู)
Nam tok moo (grilled pork salad น้ำตกหมู)

Gai yang, pla pao, som tam (green papaya salads of all varieties), yam talay, larb, tom saap, and tom yum being a few of the popular choices.

The nam tok moo (grilled pork salad น้ำตกหมู), was alright, but I’ve had better.

This being Thai street food, you can’t really judge a single dish – simply because I may have gotten the chewy piece of pork this time – it’s just the way it goes sometimes. But the dressing was perfect.

Som saap moo (sour Isan soup ต้มแซบหมู)
Som saap moo (sour Isan soup ต้มแซบหมู)

For soup we ate the tom saap moo (sour Isan soup ต้มแซบหมู), a pig filled porky broth bursting with flavor.

At the bottom of the bowl were succulent, long boiled, thumb sized chunks of pig that were so tender an infant could probably eat them.

Larb Bpet Yasothon ร้านลาบเป็ดยโสธร (ตรงข้ามสุสาน)
Larb Bpet Yasothon ร้านลาบเป็ดยโสธร (ตรงข้ามสุสาน)

A standard to any Isan meal is a plate of som tam (green papaya salad ส้มตำไทย).

Using fresh ingredients, I thought they did an excellent ratio job here – big chunks of tomato, long beans, and lots of roasted peanuts.

Grilled chicken (gai yang ไก่ย่าง) at Cemetery Street Stall!
Grilled chicken (gai yang ไก่ย่าง) at Cemetery Street Stall!

I seem t0 rarely eat grilled chicken (gai yang ไก่ย่าง), but somehow in the month of October I went on a marathon of grilled chicken, aslo eating at Sabai Jai Gai Yang.

Each place has great grilled chicken, here being mostly tasty chicken wings served. They are nice and juicy!

The Bottom Line

Sprawling down the sidewalk, across the street from a creepy cemetery, and just off busy Silom road, the street food ambiance couldn’t be much better.

It’s nearly always packed and rightfully so, because the Isan food is top notch.

Show up for dinner and you’ll probably have to share a table.

Larb Bpet Yasothon ร้านลาบเป็ดยโสธร (ตรงข้ามสุสาน)

Prices: There were 2 of us that ordered this meal and our bill came to 280 THB, including 3 plates of sticky rice and about 3 bottles of water and ice.
Hours: 3 pm – 10 pm (closed on Monday) – I’d show up somewhere between 5 pm and 8 pm
Address: Silom 9, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500
Phone: 08-1754-9867 (don’t worry, no reservations needed)

ร้านลาบเป็ดยโสธร (ตรงข้ามสุสาน)
ซ.สีลม9 บางรัก กรุงเทพ 10500
โทร. 08-1754-9867
เปิด 15:00 – 10:00 น. หยุดทุกว้นจันทร์

ร้านลาบเป็ดยโสธร (ตรงข้ามสุสาน)
Graveyard Isan restaurant in Silom, Bangkok, Thailand

How to Get There

Larb Bpet Yasothon is located on Silom Road and Soi 9 (which is also known as Soi Yasothon), just west of the big intersection of Silom Road and Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra.

You can take the BTS Skytrain to Chong Nonsi station, exit heading towards Silom Road, make a left, walk just one block until you see Silom Soi 9 (Yasothon), make a left, and the street side restaurant is on your left hand side.


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21 comments. I'd love to hear from you!

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  • SSSJ (Sierra, Sky, Sunnie & Joe)

    2 years ago

    Thanks for sharing. We can’t wait to try the graveyard eateries.

  • Mr Fai Chan

    2 years ago

    It’s great to read your recommendation for a nice place to eat northern Thai food in Bangkok. Isan food is very popular amongst Thai people as well as expatriates. I have stayed in Thailand, Pattaya for almost ten years and I could find a road side restaurant in this small town which sells excellent northern Thai food. It is located in the Third Road opposite to an ex-disco between Pattaya klang and South Pattaya Road. (sorry I forgot its name) The food there is excellent and the most popular dishes are som tom, gai tod and spicy soup cooked with beef intestines, etc. Sticky rice is recommended when you eat Isan food.

    • Mark Wiens

      2 years ago

      Hi Mr. Fai, thank you very much for reading, and thank you for the suggestion. I will remember your recommendation when I visit Pattaya!

  • Sascha

    2 years ago

    This place no longer exists it seems. I am here right now and there is only a food stall with thai sea food.

    • Mark Wiens

      2 years ago

      Hey Sascha, sorry about that, did go there very recently? They could have taken a long break for New Years. I’m quite sure they haven’t shut down.

      • Sascha

        2 years ago

        Yes, I was there just yesterday. Maybe I was too late, it was already past 9pm

  • Iain

    2 years ago

    Thanks for the recommendation. This place is near to where we’re staying so thought we’d give it a go on our first night. The English menu is pretty lacking so your book was really useful already, ordered the whole thing in Thai much to the amusement of our waiter lol. The graveyard appears to have been cleared as it’s now a construction site (!) but the food is still really good, every dish bursting with flavour.

  • Elan

    3 years ago

    I just been there today – Sunday.
    it was either closed (which might be the case that they are closed on Sundays – and you would need to update you web site) OR compltely shutdown. THere was no sign on any restaurant on SOI 9 besides the one that is on the left side just at the corner of Siam, and is not the one I was looking.

  • Mark

    4 years ago

    Hi, I’m a little bit confused. I was in March 2013 in in Bangkok and searched with a local Tuk-Tuk driver this restaurant. As we could not find it we asked a some people around there and they all said this restaurant doesnt exist anymore or maybe moved? Is this right? Can you maybe explain please again where exactly they are? i would love to eat there when i’m back in Bangkok April 14 – Thanks Mark

    • Mark Wiens

      4 years ago

      Hey Mark, good to hear from you. Yes, this place is still here and thriving (as long as they didn’t take vacation due to the protests). It’s only open in the evening, right off Silom road on Soi 9 (which is also known as Soi Yasothon). Enjoy!

    • Dwight Turner

      4 years ago

      Have been there since then. Still in the same spot and still crowded. You may have not been in the right spot or they could have been closed that day. As a matter of fact the soi has a lot more traffic lately because deeper in the soi are few more restaurants popular with the lunch crowds and people cutting through the traffic.

  • Khoi

    4 years ago

    Terrific site! May i ask what camera you used to capture all these delicious photos?

  • David Salmanowitz

    5 years ago

    Mark–
    I used to live about 2 blocks away from here and was there 2 or 3 times a week on and off for a few years. Really good most times, actually real consistent. Packed with office workers from the area in the evening, Thai Airways employees love to eat there as I always used to see them and the main office is just a few blocks away. Som tam, chicken wings, larb bla dook (spicy catfish salad), duck bills/lips, … Now I live on the other side of town but have great memories of this place.
    David

    • Mark Wiens

      5 years ago

      Hey David, glad you love this place too! I agree, it’s consistently packed and consistently serves excellent food! I really love their som tam pla ra there too!

  • Chris

    5 years ago

    Hi Mark,
    We always stay on Silom Rd and have passed this restaurant many times but never stopped – will definitely eat there next time we visit – your guide is a great help to encourage older tourists to try local street food restaurants rather than the regular tourist places.
    Cheers
    Chris

    • Dwight Turner

      5 years ago

      Hey Chris, we definitely understand why this place may not be your first choice! Actually it took us seeing huge crowds there a few times to venture down the soi and decide to get in line for a seat.

      We’re pleased you’re enjoying the guides also, happy eating and exploring!

  • Chris

    5 years ago

    Finally! I’ve been waiting for someone to recommend this place for a while! I live very close to this restaurant and go there very often, great food!

    • Mark Wiens

      5 years ago

      Great to hear that Chris! I was there again the other day, and they really do serve some wonderful Isaan food!